In Search of the Monks' Backs

Do you ever wake up in the morning and just want to do something? No, neither do I...usually. I'm not known as a morning person. I usually think it's amazing that I get up, drink a cup of coffee and go work out. (Better to do it when I'm half asleep, right?)

But yesterday was different. The sky was a bright, pure blue that just called to me and the hill across the valley of Cuenca was mocking me. We'd made a couple of attempts to get to it before. Once was a sad sort of "maybe-we-can-figure-out-the-road" sort of attempt and the other was fairly serious, but we'd come unequipped - meaning no food. So yesterday was the day, dammit! (It felt wrong omitting that word.) Even though we'd gone to the gym first thing in the morning, we thought "why not?"

We sunscreened up (yes, that's actually "a thing"), packed a lunch, loaded up our water bottles and headed off. Here's where the mountain/hill is from our place:

Las Espaldas de Monjos

Now don't get all freaked out, it seems farther than it actually is. At least that's what we told ourselves, anyway. We walked down our little hill, through El Centro, up Avenida Solano past Tres Puentes, up a brutally steep side street to reach the stairs before the stairs of Mirador Turi. We scuttled down a dirt road, crossed Las Americas, climbed the embankment and finally got to the Turi staircase. 439 stairs later we arrived at the church directly opposite (across the bowl of the city) our condo. Now, all we had to do was find the road to Las Espaldas de Monjos.

Closer up view from our place

Actual first steps to Turi

The bell tower of Turi

Don't get us wrong, we'd done as much homework as we could, but maps here don't really go outside the city proper (meaning El Centro) and it's pretty hard to figure it out on online maps if you aren't exactly sure what you're looking for. (It's not like the hill top is marked on Google Maps.)

We asked directions and the two men at the bus stop seemed surprised by our destination, but yes, we were going the right way. They pointed to a road arching up towards the hill top and we merrily went on our way. Sure we had to pass heaps of barking dogs, the further you go into the countryside the more dogs you'll see - no small feat considering how many dogs are in the city.

Seriously gorgeous day.

Baby cow! 

Final-ish stretch

We don't worry so much about the street dogs, but the owned dogs can be aggressive and unpredictable. We passed cows and sheep, more chickens than you can shake a stick at and suddenly the hill came in to view. The only problem was that the road was turning away from it. We carried on, assuming that it would, eventually, loop back. This happened several times and we debated on whether we should give up or not but we finally found ourselves at the ridge of Las Espaldas de Monjos. Of course, you can't see that part from where we live.

We followed the dirt road up and around one of the hills and could finally see a direct road link to our destination. We made it to the cross that marks the top of the hill in two hours and fifteen minutes. Not bad, considering we had to stop and ask for directions a couple of times and took one wrong turn. We honestly should have known that there are no "direct" roads to darn near anywhere here, but in many ways we're still naïve.

Been there, done that!

The views were well worth the walk and we enjoyed our picnic lunch amongst the butterflies that inhabit the summit. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Ecuadorian pose!

Las Cajas in the distance

Surrounding landscape

In a fit of pure optimism (buoyed by our success, no doubt) we tried to find a shorter path down, but only got to some steep cliffs that were impassable without mountaineering equipment, so we were forced to hike back up to the summit and return the way we'd come. Fortunately, it was mostly down hill going back, so it only took us a couple of hours.

Artsy pic with the cross's shadow

From the back side of Turi

If walking 18.5 kms isn't your thing, you can always catch the #19 bus and it will drop you off on the road that runs the ridge to the hill, but for us - what would be the fun in that?

No Joy in Air Travel

Flying used to be fun, kids, I swear. Free wine with dinner, free headphones, shorter arrival times, longer flights, less layovers. There was even a certain amount of glamour to it. But all that is gone now.

Airlines are now nickel and diming us to death. Baggage allowances are getting smaller, there is a shortage of direct flights to pretty well anywhere. The "hub" reigns supreme. And now the IATA is talking about reducing the size of carry on luggage by 40%.  Yes, that's right...almost half. Add to this extra costs for checked bags, for purchase on board meals, fees for "premium" seats, "preferential" boarding and Lord only knows what else (using the loo on one economy airline in Europe!), it's completely taking the joy out of travel. And that's just the actual flight. This doesn't even include arriving THREE HOURS early for international flights, having your bags weighed like you're some sort of overweight baggage criminal. Then there's clearing security (remove your liquids, electronics and shoes!), finding your gate, possibly having to deal with another random security inspection, having your carry on rejected by the flight attendant, engendering an additional checked bag fee. The glamour is officially gone.

With all this in mind, we find ourselves asking: "should we buy new, smaller carry-ons?" Should we say "screw it!" and just travel via bus/train/boat, or do we, as the airlines hope we will, just suck it up and get on the airplane anyway?

We just don't have an answer, but it's daunting. I can't imagine being a new traveller; someone who is taking their first international flight, and surmounting all of this ridiculousness. The airlines will eventually lose passengers...it's just not worth it, especially to the newbie. Hey, they can just go to Vegas and visit the Eiffel Tower, Egypt, Italy etc. They'll never know the difference and for West Coasters it's a short flight, with not much luggage required, especially in the summer. So go on "stay-cations", discover your own country, heck even your own town - especially if you can do it in the comfort of your own car and stick your tongue out at the airlines that have obviously lost any sense of customer service or obligation to the people who pay their way.

That being said, the airlines in South America are more generous to their long flight guests, so all is not lost, maybe give them a try and enjoy a bit of what flying used to be about. To the other airlines, that have created a class system that makes me want to slink into the coach section, like I'm not worthy of even laying eyes on the first class passengers, shame on you! Pull up your socks, develop a better business model and stop punishing the coach passengers for not being able to pay for first/business class. (Seriously...in Canada the ticket is often double the price!)

I will say thank you to the airlines that rejected the IATA recommendation of down sizing carry on...and to those of you that try and sneak things on that you well know are oversize, please don't continue adding to the problem, no matter how tempting it is! (Trust me, I know the lure of taking everything into the cabin with you!) We won't talk about the possible class action law suits against Air Canada and several US airlines regarding collusion to rig costs at inflated rates...no, we won't discuss that yet. 

I raise my $8 glass of (mediocre) wine to all of you that continue to fly the unhappy skies to get to strange, new, wonderful places and see what the world has to hold.

Ecuadorian Contracts - Important Info!!!

We all know that things are different down here, or at least I would guess that most people have that understanding, but sometimes I forget and find myself surprised in certain circumstances.

Let's take a hypothetical situation - you're buying a new build house that has a late delivery clause. If the condo is supposed to be ready for occupancy on July 14th, but isn't ready the builder may agree to a financial penalty, most likely per day; say $20. (For arguments sake). You finally move in to your condo on the very first day it's ready for occupancy and that day is July 30th (I like easy math), that means that you should be getting a discount/refund of 17 x $20 = $340, right?

No, not necessarily. Even though this is a clause written in to the purchase agreement, if the builder doesn't pay it willingly you will need to sue him. So it comes to down to the question "is it worth it?" For $320? No. No, it isn't. 

Your lawyer might even explain to you that this is more of an "encouragement" clause, something that keeps your build on track and that you can fall back on if things really go south, say they owe you 300 days. That's assuming your contract doesn't include a way to get out of the purchase if the place isn't ready in 90/120 or however many days the property may be late. (It's possible you might have to sue to get your money back, as well, we never had to go that far.) When it was added (not at our request) we thought it was odd to have a late delivery clause...I mean, really, when has a new build ever completed on time? It seemed sort of un-Ecuadorian. Live and learn.

But it actually was a classic Ecuadorian lesson. As a people, they are notorious for agreeing to things that are completely impossible, or at the very least, improbable. I believe they really don't like conflict as a general rule and will say anything to avoid it. Now that we know there's no real way of enforcing verbal or even written agreements of this nature (without spending a load of money on legal fees etc.), the extranjero can be caught by surprise. Locals will be genuinely confused when you get upset with them for things of this nature, as this is standard practice here.

Okay...that's just funny!

What's the take away? Put those sorts of details in the contract, because you might actually need to act on it, but don't expect it to be an adjustment on the closing costs that you're lawyers follow up on. Consider yourself forewarned and always ask for clarification when talking about these finer points. Don't take anything for granted and be prepared to let some things go.

Gratuitous Promotion of my second book - "Last Farmer"

It's been two years in the making and I'm almost ready to launch my next book through Amazon Kindle Direct Publishing. Like all things creative, I'm excited and terrified, but I hope that you'll like the book. I'm adding the book cover and the "back cover blurb". 

Please, feel free to comment,  all input is helpful for me.

"In the dusty ruins of once verdant Earth, humanity is forced to live in bio-domes that protect them from the harsh environment of the Burn Zone. In the government controlled domes, life is highly regimented and Dax, a high school history teacher, is tired of his tedious existence, but he has a plan to fix all that.

Unfortunately for Dax, an orphan named Jake has different ideas. The boy wants Dax to abandon his dream of a cushy professorship to look for something that must surely be a fable. The government insists that the only thing outside the comfort of the domes is death, but the two will have to cross the void in an attempt to fulfill the boy’s quest.

Can Dax give up his dreams, defy his government and survive the Burn Zone, just on the whim of his student, Jake? And if he does, can he protect them both from the unknown dangers of the outside world?"


So here's the deal: I'm on an exclusive contract with Kindle for 90 days. They do provide a free app for PCs, Macs and mobile devices (including tablets) so you can read their books without owning a Kindle reader. I'm not sure how, or if, I can get the book into other formats once the 90 days is up. (Well, I know I can PDF it, but that's about it.)


The book is available on most Amazon country specific websites. The link, on the book cover, above is for the Canadian site, here's the US link: LAST FARMER


I'm the only one promoting this book, so if you can share this blog I'd be grateful! Thanks for supporting me and my endeavours, I really hope you enjoy the book.

Why I Think Travel is the Key to Peace

Moulin Rouge, Paris, France

You've probably heard it many times; that travel broadens your mind. Going to new places, strange places, foreign places gives you an appreciation for how similar we, as humans, actually are, no matter how exotic our differences may seem.

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain

River View, Montreal, QC, Canada

Whistler, Canada

Legislative Buildings, Victoria, BC

There is something about being in a place, where you don't understand the language, the culture or, basically, anything that makes you more open to learning. You constantly ask yourself questions. "Why?" "Where?" "How?" and more often than not "What?"

Unknown Spanish Musician playing unknown instrument

No matter where you are the children still run around, laugh and have tantrums. The parents work hard and looked distracted by the little one's antics. Food is cooked, business transacted, people get married and people die. There is a oneness to the experience that makes me understand that we are all, essentially, the same. At least that is what strikes me first when I arrive in a new destination.

Kid's getting doused by firemen during the Christmas parade

Honouring fallen heroes, NYC

That's when the differences usually hit me. Why do they do things that way? How can they manage without (fill in your pet convenience)? What makes them so ardent/stoic/happy/sad? I often feel adrift in the complexities of cultural differences and nuance, but that's the point of travelling. You widen your view of what is acceptable, what is normal and what is right.

Chrysler Building New York, NY, USA

Boston, MA, USA

Si'wash Rock, Vancouver, BC, Canada

Plains of Montana

British Columbia Rockies

Sunset in Prince Edward Island

Cotopaxi Volcano, Ecuador

Quilatoa Lake, Ecuador

If everyone would just take the  time to absorb some of what this world has to offer (and I'm not talking about material crap, but the amazing colours, sights, experiences that are LIFE) then we would be a more peaceful people. But we're losing this, as our world shrinks because of technology and the homogeneousness that leeches into the most exotic places, there is less space for strangeness or disparity. The more we rely on the small screen of our phone to see the world, the less we are likely to open ourselves to what is actually around us.

Magi meets Modern

Kids in 9 Hour Parades

Traditional Dancers

I see it in the defacing of historic monuments and careless disrespect shown to sacred places. I see it in the angry faces of the Ugly American (a term that applies to many outside the American continents) who refuse to accept that things aren't the same as where they come from. I see it in the news, both at home and afar.

There is hope. I've met many travellers that are discovering the world with their heads up, smiles on their faces and ready to learn more about where there are in that moment. This is what leads us to peace. Not just a worldly one, but a spiritual calm as well. I know, it sounds airy-fairy, but I also believe it to be true.

Added bonus...making friends!

Sunrise over the Andes

So go out and discover the world, accept what is different and know that many paths lead to the "right" way. I only ask you to remember that you are an ambassador for your entire country, so be on your best behaviour.

"The journey of 1,000 miles starts with one step" ~ Lao Tzu (really a better translation is "Even the longest journey must begin from where you stand.")

Wow! We Have an Answer to the "Why Ecuador?" Question

If finally came to us...just today...a good answer for the dreaded "Why Ecuador?" question. Usually we say things like "why not?" or "seemed like a good idea at the time". But today was the day when we found a logical, pleasing and fairly unarguable reason to love Ecuador. It's super easy to stay healthy. Right? Who can argue with that?

Not lookin' too bad, right?

The weather is, at the very least, acceptable for outdoor activity all year round. There are lots of walking paths, parks with exercise equipment, free bikes on Sunday mornings, cheap and plentiful gyms. (We currently pay a dollar each per visit to the local gym.) Add to this the amazing places to hike in Las Cajas and the other neat places around Cuenca makes this an ideal place to retire and keep ourselves fairly fit.

Parque Paraiso (exercise equipment & great paths)

Tomebamba River - multi-use path along side

Yes, it's safe. (That's the other question we get a lot. Why would anyone move somewhere that they didn't feel was safe?) We walk almost everywhere, including toting our groceries home. The cost of living is manageable. Sure you have to learn Spanish and adjust to a simpler diet, but the other health benefits outweigh all that. By the way, living at higher altitudes requires that you eat a bit more carbs and sugars to help oxygenate the blood...that's just a little bonus. It doesn't hit my hips like it did at sea level. (YAY!)

Las Cajas - Endless pathways

So there you have it...we're here for a healthier life!

Post Holiday Blues

So what do you do after a trip of a lifetime? Apparently, I sulk. Sure it was great to be home, surrounded by our stuff, at least for the first few hours, but it felt like we were supposed to be doing something, but couldn't quite remember what it was.

What? The holiday's over???

We did the laundry, restocked the refrigerator, put the luggage back in the bodega and met up with friends. It's nice to have friends, but it has it's downfalls, too. They all wanted to know what was next for us? What new and exciting thing were we going to do as a follow up? The sad truth is that we just don't know. The world is a huge place with limitless possibilities, but sadly, the same cannot be said for our cash. Big trips take planning and saving as well as inspiration. How can we just whittle down our next destination from all the choices.

There's a lot of places in Ecuador that we'd still like to see; some near, so far, but how do you get excited when you've been to one of the mother-of-all-bucket-list places in the world? It's obvious to me...you need to go to another one. Should it be another of the 7 wonders of the world? Should it be one of the 7 natural wonders of the world? Or one of the 7 most popular treks in the world? Why limit it to the sevens? Why not look at top twenty things?

You see where I'm going with this, right? The list gets to be overwhelming and unless we want to pile all the options in to a hat and pull one out, we may never decide what to do next. (Don't laugh, we've done the hat thing before and it worked out quite well.)

I know that the Galapagos is on many people "must see" list and so is the Amazon, and those are two things right here in Ecuador. There are tons of animals to be seen, birds to watch and waterways to traverse, so we've got a lot to look forward to. Perhaps they aren't the Wall or the Pyramids of Giza, but they are amazing in their own way. Now, all we need to do is pump up the cash reserves again, so we can get back on the travel horse and discover more of the world. Maybe we'll see you out there, somewhere!