Marvel at Manuel Antonio National Park

We originally had no intention of going so far south and visiting one of the largest attractions in the country, but the lure of what it had to offer was irresistible.

An unexpected lunch guest

A toucan also dropped by

The bad news was that it was almost a 5 hour drive from where we were staying and the best time to see the animals was gate-opening at 8am. We abandoned our Air B&B a day early and made the drive. It was slightly overcast, but warm, and we managed to avoid the Transito (traffic police). On a recommendation, we stopped (via a misguided route offered by Google Maps - sometimes she's such a cow!) at a hotel called Villa Caletas, a beautifully situated edifice, perched high on a cliff overlooking the ocean. We had lunch at their restaurant (Restaurante Anfiteatro) which, unsurprisingly, had an amphitheatre carved into the cliffside. Sadly, there was no musical performance for lunch, but we enjoyed sweeping views of the water, made more enjoyable by the lush tropical plants, excellent service and very fine meal.

Pathway to the restaurant

Overcast, but warm, with big views

After passing a couple of pleasant hours surveying the sea, we hopped back in the putt-putt (really, there's no other name for it, completely serviceable, but not terribly peppy) and continued on through Quepos to our hotel. It was a lovely little find called The Falls at Manuel Antonio. It doesn't look like much on the outside, but was a sweet little oasis after a long drive.

Flowers of the rain forest

We rose early to eat breakfast at 7am and met our transport at 7:45. We were whisked off to the park, picking up the rest of our group and were ready to head in a little after the 8am opening. Ron and I boldly opted to take the tour in Spanish. (Yay, us!) It proved to be an excellent experience and we understood nearly everything our guide, Jason, said.

Fawn hiding in the underbrush

Three-toed Sloth, making his way through the trees

White faced monkey (in silhouette)

Two-toed sloth (vaguely reminiscent of Chewbacca)

Just hangin' around

Sweet little hummingbird taking a rest

Squirrel monkey (too fast for a good pic)

Yup, we found the world's cutest monkey

M. Antonio is the smallest national park in Costa Rica (at least, I believe it is), but it offers a lot. There are three varieties of monkeys and both types of sloths, plus an excellent selection of lizards, birds and is also home to White-tailed deer. Not only that, but there is an excellent white sand beach in the park that is safe for children to swim. (Costa Rica is notorious for rip tides.) 

We had a great time, got to joke with some Spaniards and a mom and daughter from San Diego; all in Spanish.

Crocodiles on the way back to San Jose

Sharing a joke? Laughing behind the other's back?

These guys are big - 2 metres long or so

I have to say that it was the busiest park we visited and seeing the crowds, we were worried that all the animals would be scared away. Our fears were unfounded and we got to enjoy all the wildlife the park had to offer. It's well worth paying for a guide, as Jason (Jade Tours) pointed out things that we'd never have spotted on our own, including a confused little fruit bat hanging out on a tree in the middle of the morning.

Not the best photo, but that's the bat looking addlepated

I think it's safe to say that we've avoided the most touristy of traps (I'm talking about you, ziplines) and wrung the most out of our time in the wilds of Costa Rica. I'm sure, all told, we drove well over 3,000 kms on all our adventures.

The putt-putt before (Daihatsu Terios) - shiny!

The putt-putt after... (not shiny)

Next up, San Jose, the capital city. We might regret it, based on the faces of those folks that heard we were staying 2 weeks there, but we'll let the city speak for itself. 

Cajas on My Mind

Last Saturday, our hiking group decided to do a nice 8km hike through the Cajas which ended up as 13km, with a few of the group sleeping over night in a lovely grove that would be well sheltered from the weather, if lacking in amenities. I wasn't going to go. The Cajas are notorious for cranky weather, uneven and poorly marked trails and I'm still recovering from my injuries.

That morning, the skies looked quite clear, I could see the mountains and just couldn't stand the thought of staying in the house one more day, so I geared up and off Ron and I went to the meeting point. We had to wait for the bus for over an hour...this is Ecuador, after all and my tendon started cramping up, but I persevered.

Lady of the Waterfall

The delay didn't do us much favours with the weather. After about 40 minutes on the bus, we debarked (de-bussed?) and were met with hail. Thankfully, most of us had dressed appropriately and it was but a minor irritant. Side note: layers are important under these circumstances, I only had a running shirt on and they my rain jacket and could feel the little pellets binging off my shoulders. It hailed so much that the ground was white and though none of us suggested not continuing, I did wonder what I'd gotten myself into. I added another layer between me and the projectiles and found myself far more comfortable.

Thanks LT, for the photo..the white stuff is hail.

The good news was that the sky eventually relented and we dried out and made it to the camping spot with only one member taking a tumble. (It wasn't me.) The scenery was stunning; filled with lakes, waterfalls and empty vistas that make you feel like there's no one else on the planet. (Except the 14 people we were hiking with, of course.)

The shelter of the wooded copse

Paper trees - one of the few that grow well at
high altitude

Some witty person said we're like the children of Isreal
spreading out across our land

Those of us that weren't staying over had another 3kms or so, to get back to the main road and try and catch a bus. The passage took down two more of us, myself included. (This is bad news, the last thing I need to do is fall on my broken bum, which bears the question why was I there in the first place? Hind sight is 20/20 as they say.) 

A gentleman fisher

Lone tree

One of the many river valleys through the Cajas

We were incredibly lucky to catch a bus only minutes after arriving at the highway and as we headed back home the sun started breaking through the cloud cover, just in time to welcome us back to Cuenca.

Credit John Keeble - Master of the Action shot

Actual footage of me going down on my butt

I'm suffering for the fall, or possibly, just because that's how this healing process goes, but it was worth it. There is no better balm for the soul than being out in nature, but for the time, my big hike days are on hold. I can't wait for the time when I can fearlessly strap on my boots and get back out into the wild.

Red Rock to Blue Mountains - the colours of Australia

In my last post, I almost promised not to show anymore rocks, but I knew the folly of that, especially knowing that we were taking a day trip to the Blue Mountains, just outside of Sydney. It was another early start, but we'd planned well and had a plan so I wouldn't have to eat right away, so it was all good.

Controlled burn in the background

We practically had a private tour, with just the guide and potential new hire who was auditing the trip. (It can't get much better than that, can it?) I'm not quite sure where our heads were at, but nothing about the word "Mountains" made us think "cold"...rather un-Canadian, no? Okay, so maybe it wasn't COLD, but it was chilly after days of anywhere from 27 to 32 Celsius. 

Blue Mountains

Despite the chill, the hike was invigorating and the sights were impressive, despite the controlled burns that could be seen in one of the valleys. The Blue Mountains get their name from a mist that is given off by the eucalyptus that grow there. The trees are like Bond Villains, engineering to  take over of the world. Yes, they would definitely have a white Persian cat on their laps. The trees release oil into the air, creating the blue haze that the mountains are known for and shed their bark over the forest floor in either strips or flakes. Why? In hopes of creating a forest fire. They have several mechanisms to survive or regrow after a fire, while their competitors would be mostly burnt to ash. Isn't that so survival of the fittest?

Oil haze in the background right

Anyhow, our guide Spiro, was a font of knowledge and showed us so many interesting things about the flora and fauna. It was a great day and we got to see the Three Sisters and had a very full day.

The Three Sisters

I'm a bit behind in the blogs, I'm afraid. I got super lazy while we were in Phuket and didn't do much of anything on the writing front, but up next will be about Sydney and all it has to offer. Hope to see you back soon! 

Tasmania - the Bold and Beautiful

Hello! I'm back. Did you miss me?

Before I start with more tales from the road, I would be remiss not to mention the horrible earthquake in Ecuador. 654 people (and counting) died in the quake, over 12,000 were injured, 7,000 buildings were destroyed and 58 people are still missing. Please do what you can to help. There are several campaigns running to help the hardest struck areas. This was an event of incredible magnitude, and I cannot stress enough the need for further relief efforts.

Canadian Red Cross Relief Effort 

World Vision Relief Effort 

I know there are many more options, but any help is gratefully accepted. Or come visit. Your tourist dollars will help with the rebuilding of this amazing and beautiful country and you get to see some incredible places.

Now on with the journey. (Photo heavy blog alert!)

We've had a wild time in Tasmania and beyond. It was our first campervan experience together and like all things new: we laughed, we cried, we broke something.

We started in Hobart, the major city of the state. (Yes, they call them states here, despite being part of the Commonwealth.) It's an interesting little city, right on the bay, which provides fresh seafood and pretty nice views.

Random buildings in Hobart

Market items

Market items

Mt. Wellington from a distance

Saturday market - it was crammed with people

We climbed Mount Wellington, strolled the streets, visited the weekend market and sampled some amazing Vietnamese food.

Hobart from halfway up Mt. Wellie

Teddy enjoying the view from our lunch spot

Hobart, the bay and beyond

Steep and slippy (but worth it!)

The "Organ Pipes" - basalt columns

We also went to an amazing museum/gallery know as the MONA. It has a collection of art that amazes, disconcerts and spurs conversation. It's a must if you visit Hobart.

Ferry to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA)

Art on the ferry

Leaving Hobart

Chairs are passe, why not ride a sheep to
the MONA?

On the bay

The gallery approaches

One of the works in the gallery
This was inspired when the artist witnessed the aftermath
of a suicide bombing. He was struck by the serenity on the
face of the 19 year old who had just given his life.

After cramming in as much as we could we picked up our campervan and headed towards Port Arthur, stocking up on groceries on the way. We went on a ghost tour of the old prison and fort the first night we arrived. There were red chested wallabies and pademelons (smaller cousins to the wallabies and 'roos) as well as fairly tame parrots that would eat out of your hand. (I know...that's bad, but who could resist? Not even Ron!)

The Beast (the vehicle...of course)

Pademelon - crow for scale

Hate to say it, but they're kind of like giant rats

No eerie apparitions on this ghost tour

Bird with a toupee

"Wild" parrot

We'd heard about the largest basalt columns in the country and couldn't resist taking a boat tour to check out the soaring cliffs. We were hoping to hike to them, but realized we wouldn't have time, as they were at the end of a three day trek through Tasman National Park. (Nor were we equipped for such a thing.)

Start of the boat tour

The amazing coastline

Pod of dolphins playing in the wake

Australian fur seal

Seal butt...he was playing in the current.

Say "cheese"!

It's a seal's life!

1000 feet high!

Blue water

Soaring above us.

We were lucky enough to cavort with dolphins, see albatross and gannets, as catch a seal hunting pack at rest in the currents. It was a pretty amazing day.

Then we were off to Freycinet National Park. (Long story, but we did a LOT of backtracking in Tassie.) There we took a hike to a fairly well known beach called Wine Glass Bay. Both the hike and the bay are stunning. There's something about unmolested coastline that speaks to our souls. (Not a hotel or luxury condo in sight!)

A peak of Wine Glass Bay

The trail continues

Getting closer

On the beach

Pristine

Then we turned back the way we had come and headed for the little town of Triabunna (pronounced Try-bana, in Aussie, but more on that later.) Why that little berg, you might ask? Well, it's the jump off point to Maria (pronounced Mariah) Island. Home of the totally adorable wombat. You're practically guaranteed to see one there and that was on my to-do list.

Triabunna was the place of "the incident" where we smashed the back window of the campervan. It made our Tassie experience a bit more stressful, but that's life, right? Okay, there was a hidden burl in a tree and, in the opinion of the repairman, the windows are so taught that the slightest bit of pressure blows them to smithereens. I don't think you could recreate the incident if you tried, but we had taken the comprehensive insurance, so it was all good. I'm not superstitious, usually, but we were backing into campsite 13, when it happened. (Hmmmm...)

Cape Barren Goose - favourite snack of the Tasmanian Devil

Maria Island Fauna

Baby anemones

The Painted Cliffs

Wombat!

"Yes, I know I'm adorable."

Another wombat - I love them.

 

The Fossil Cliffs - layer upon layer of fossilized molluscs

 

Couldn't resist adding one more - so cute!

Wallaby, at least I think

Back to the Tassie mainland

With another little jog back to Hobart, in dashed hopes of getting a new camper, we headed to Launceston - also known as Tasmanian wine country. We went on a wine sampling drive on a gorgeous autumn day.

Well deserved glass of wine

And good company

Wine country

Picnic

The view

 

 

After a good night's sleep we got ready for our long(ish) trip up to Cradle Mountain and then on to the ferry to get back to the mainland.

Lake at Cradle Mountain

A couple insisted that we pose together.

A bit closer up, you can see why it has its name.

Our berth.

Teddy gets a little too "into" wine

Then sleeps it off.

 Twelve days isn't enough to see the wonder that is Tasmania. We missed the Bay of Fires (due to our return trip to Hobart) and some other little stops and we didn't even touch much of the west side of the island.

Up next is the Great Ocean Road, or GOR, for those in the know.