From Sea to Desert - Uluru and Kata Tjuta

Some people might ask "What's so great about a big rock in the middle of no where?" It's a valid question, at least before you see Uluru (also known as Ayers Rock) rising up from the plains of the desert. We were told on our camel tour (don't laugh...it was actually pretty cool) that "the Rock" is like an iceberg, with only a small part showing. It actually goes about 2 and a half kilometres into the ground.

First look - view from the plane

The desert wasn't what we'd expected - there were trees (desert oak) that are hundreds of years old, they grow very slowly. The brush was full of flowers and every where we looked we could see green, growing things. This was due to a recent rain fall. On our trip from Sydney to Uluru we flew over Lake Eyre, usually a dry salt flat, but this time it had water in it. It's not a usual thing, so we were, once again, very lucky.

Lake Eyre

The Uluru resort is exactly that. A place where they have a "captive" audience with no surrounding amenities, so they charge as they wish, they offer whatever quality they care to (but keep to a fair standard) and milk the link to an 600 million year old site for all it's worth. As long as you can be okay with that, the experience is great. We opted for a camel tour for our first official encounter with the rock. It might sound random, but camels actually helped build Australia. The country is also home to the largest wild camel herd in the world with around a million dromedaries frolicking in the bush. (Going "walkabout", if you will.) Our noble steed was called Pete, sure not the most romantic name, but he was the camps tallest camel and of a biddable nature that we enjoyed. 

What we did get to witness was the changing colours of Uluru. The rock itself is actually grey, but because of the high iron content (much like in Prince Edward Island) the surface layer oxidizes and the rock takes on a reddish hue. As the sun lowers, the surface reflects the light in such a way that the colour deepens. After the ride, we enjoyed a couple glasses of wine and some local snacks back at the camel farm and headed back to our hotel for an early night. Predawn was calling.

Ron gearing up for the camel ride

Petey, our noble steed

So strangely green

Shadows are lengthening

Looks like a fake back drop, right?

But we were really there!

Coming to the end of the day

Nearly a full moon

 

The deep purple of last light

We were blessed with a clear night and the stars were incredible. We laid out on a hillock and watched as Venus's belt (the purple of night) rising on the horizon and eventually turning into the velvet blackness of night, studded with planets, stars and the occasional  satellite. It was a good way to wrap up the day.

The next morning we took the shuttle to Uluru to watch the sun rise and then hike around the base. (I'm starting to think that Ron secretly delights in making me get up early - which goes completely against my nature.)The sunrise was a bit of a gong show with huge tour buses dropping off scads of tourists that flocked to the viewing deck for the break of day. 
 

This is the opposite side from the day before

Once the sun was up, almost everyone loaded back up onto their buses and headed to points unknown. We hopped back on the shuttle to go to the base and did the almost 10km hike. I'm glad we didn't do it in the afternoon, as the flies started coming out as we were wrapping up and although they don't bite, they're irksome; getting into you ears, eyes, nose etc. There are several sections of the rock that are sacred to the Anagnu people and signs have been placed requesting that you not take photos, which we respected, even though some of the rock face was stunning and it was hard not to sneak a picture. 

The rocks in the middle left are Kata Tjuta

 I think that what surprised us the most was the textures on Uluru. In most photos it looks pretty smooth, with signs of erosion, but up close, it has several textures and several caves that play a large part in the history of the aborigines. These photos are trying to capture that.
 

Close up of the surface

The guardian of the Anagnu people

Before long it was time to head back to the resort town and get ready to fly back to Sydney. We regretted not staying an extra night so we could take in the little known, but stunning Kata Tjuta; a rock formation 40kms from Uluru and worthy of equal attention.

Our zoom did the best it could, but I don't think the photos do Kata Tjuta justice. If we'd had more time we would have gone there and also checked out Valley of the Winds (don't you love that name?)

It was well worth the whirlwind visit and we left satisfied. Next post? The amazing Blue Mountains and then Sydney. You've almost made it, we only have a few more weeks and then back to the usual stuff.

A Trip to Ecuador - Part 2 Climate

Climate! What to pack? What's it going to be like? Aigh! 
 
Okay, so let's not panic. While Ecuador is close to the equator (hence it's name) not everywhere is hot. For a trip that traverses the three climactic zones, layering is going to be key. 

The Coast is more casual and you will see more shorts, flips flops, sandals and tank tops. Why? Because it's hot, sticky and everything is damp, especially during the rainy season. (February to early April - but that's only a rough guide line.) It runs in the low to high 30's (Celsius) and occasionally can hit the 40's.

The Andes are cooler, you might need a light jacket at night, or if you're wandering around the Volcanoes or highlands, you could need gloves, knit hat and scarf. (It kind of depends where you come from and the time of year.) In Cuenca and Quito, we get by fine with just a light jacket or sweater, even during the cooler season in July. I've never had to use gloves, scarf or toque (that's a knit beanie for US readers). However, I've been up in the Cajas and have needed all three - oh, and I'm Canadian, so I have a certain innate tolerance for cold.

Here's my strategy: I have a light weight rain shell, that can protect me from unexpected downpours (which are remarkably frequent over a good part of the country), a sweater/exercise jacket and then my shirt of choice. This usually does me for any and all temperatures here. On the coast, I stuck to the same process, but usually only needed one extra layer if it was raining. An umbrella is also an excellent idea.

Trusty athletic jacket and rain shell.

In the Andean cities it is fairly unusual to see shorts on anyone (except children and teenage girls). You do see tank tops and skirts, but men almost always wear pants. Shoes are a big deal here, but most locals expect foreigners to go for comfort and not style. Nice restaurants can have very well dressed people (suits and ties) but there will also be people dressed more casually and you probably won't be denied service because of dress.

Andean Wilderness Trekking Gear

If you're heading to the Amazon you're going to want decent travel/trekking clothes; light weight, water repellent, with long sleeves and pant legs. (That keeps the bugs out.) You'll also want a good hat, bug spray and really good sunscreen. A bathing suit is recommended so you can frolic with the piranhas (not kidding), and other river fauna. Oh, and be prepared for mud...lots of it...the suck your boots off your feet kind of quagmire that only happens in places that are constantly wet.

I want to make a point of discussing sunscreen...it is a must. (Many people say the same for hats, but I only haul mine out on the very hottest of days, but I have tons of hair, so that affects my selection process.) The rays of the sun here are strong...really strong. 16 degrees here feels like 23 and 23 feels like you're heading towards 30. It's not something to mess with. I can stay out for most of the day in ambient sunlight in Vancouver and not burn, but here it only takes 15 minutes for me to turn as red as a lobster. Even the locals use sunscreen or cover themselves up and use umbrellas to protect themselves. This applies to anywhere in the country and anyplace even near the equator.

 

Footwear will depend on what you like to do on your holidays Hiking shoes (good tread, good support and breathable) are recommended so you can be comfortable and trek around easily. They can take you from city streets, to the national parks and the rocky shores of the Galapagos. They also tend to be water proof, which is a bonus for wandering in the mud of the Amazon. You might want to bring rubber flip flops if you plan on staying in hostels and for going to places like visiting towns with natural hots springs like Banos de Imbarra, Banos de Cuenca etc, plus they're great for the beaches on the coast. Whatever shoes you choose to bring make sure they have rubber soles with good grip; this will prevent you from sliding over the wet tiles that often pave the sidewalks in the cities - this is a million dollar tip and will save you from sitting on your fanny in the middle of the street because of a little rain shower. (It;s embarrassing and I speak from experience.)

If you have any questions about Ecuador, please let me know. Further installments to come.

Machu Picchu 4 - FOOD

Okay, so you've taken the adventure with us, you've camped, hiked and summited; seen the sights and experienced history. What more could there possibly be??? Food, of course.




WARNING: Not for people who hate food or pictures of food!!! (Or on horribly strict diets and are currently feeling desperate.)

Peru is the gourmet capital of South America and has been named, on several occasions the gourmet capital of the world. (Shhhh, don't tell France or Italy.) One of the reasons we selected Llama Path Tours is because we heard the food was awesome. (I mentioned this in an earlier post.) Their weakest meal was breakfast, but nobody left hungry or dissatisfied. (It might have something to do with the fact that we're oatmeal addicts and they never served it and the fresh fruit was a bit lacking, but that's another thing that we're obsessed with.)

I'm going to post a selection of photos from our trek, as well as some of the food we had in Cusco and Lima. Enjoy...we certainly did.

Sebastian's work:  Chef for Llama Path (Salkantay Trek)

Chicken Ceviche

Fried Trout in Herb Sauce

Stuffed Avacadoes

Chicken with Tomato Salsa

Mixed Vegetable Salad

Pizza

Chicken Skewers on a Turtle Shaped Pinapple

Steamed Veggies in a Yellow Aji Dressing

Ceviche is Peru's signature dish, followed closely by their signature drink the Pisco Sour:

Ceviche with Yellow Aji

Traditional Ceviche with an Herb Sauce Twist

Unintentionally (but conveniently) we had a gourmet day in Lima, with lunch at a restaurant called Cala, located right on the beach. We sat out on the balcony, overlooking the ocean and enjoyed "light" meal, which included a bottle of wine and dessert.

Beef Cheeks in Bernaise Sauce with Soft Boiled Egg

Traditional Mixed Ceviche

Chocolate Mousse (soo Spanish - ha ha)

Suspiro de Chiramoya

Later that night we went to a highly acclaimed restaurant called IK. (Don't think I didn't noticed the irony of a restaurant having a name the sound equivalent of "ICK", as in yuck, gross.) Fortunately for us, the restaurant was named after the owner Ivan Kisik and not for a poor dining experience. The whole thing (including the building) was designed to appeal to every sense. The interior is constructed like a Peruvian fruit crate; think a wooden orange crate, with plants inserted between the slats, giving a sense of the Amazon. The bathroom (at least the ladies') has a ceiling of Plexiglas tiles, bedecked with vinyl coating of blooming vines and back lighting. The rest is pretty well all mirror, so you feel like your in a sunny arbor.

See the chefs on the lower tier? A symphony of culinary work.

We opted for the 8 dish tasting menu (you can also order a la carte or go nuts and have the 11 course tasting menu). We didn't have a bad dish. There was only one that you needed to work at to get all the flavours going, but the rest were very well developed an balanced and it was a remarkable experience. I will say one thing; the restaurant and staff take themselves very seriously (for me, I'm used to a more relaxed dining experience, even at five star restaurants). 

This might stem from the fact that the chef who imagined this experience was killed in a car accident shortly before the restaurant opened. I can only think that the staff are adhering to his legacy. They obviously have exacting service standards, ensuring that everyone at the table receives their dish at the same time (my mind boggles at the thought of a table for 10...would the sous chef come out to make sure each guest was served simultaneously?), replacing cutlery with every course (okay, that's not so unusual) and operating with grace, even in the kitchen, which you can see from the dining area.  Anyhow, here's the meal, with description.

Menu - click to enlarge

Amuse bouche (not on menu)
Octopus on homemade torilla chips
Trout on Sweet Potato Mousse

Amazonian tuber pudding with coconut froth

Corvina in a grenadilla saude, kumquat, daikon, ginger geletin

Variety of tomatoes, aromatic herbs, chia and chili pepper

Scallops in lulo (an amazonian fruit)

Amazonian Paiche, warm ceviche

Corvina with bok choy, lemongrass and sauteed veg.

Cuy (guinea pig) 3 ways
Above - skin, purple corn chips and cuy pate
Below - marinated cuy thigh

Another traditional Peruvian dish
Chicharon (pork belly) with corn and mustard
braised with teriyaki

Sauteed apples in pisco, smoked apple puree, nut and
frozen tarragon powder

White chocolate truffles with maracuya liquid

Strawberry marshmellows

Peruvian Yunsa Tree

Chocolate and ganache truffles

Fittingly, on our last full day, we chose to stroll along the beach and have a relaxing lunch at the nearby mall. Not what you expected? This mall is like one in Southern California, mostly outside, with restaurants strung along the beach side of the complex. We skipped the T.G.I.Friday's and headed for a restaurant called Popular. It was mother's day and everything was fairly busy, but we scored two seats along the bar overlooking the ocean, once again. We ordered the pulpo al carbon (grilled octopus) and traditional mixed ceviche along with an Argentinian sparkling wine. It was a great way to pass an afternoon.

We finished of our culinary journey that evening at a Japanese restaurant inexplicably called Magma...I don't know if they meant Manga or if the name was intentional, but it was nice to have a simple, fresh and fairly inexpensive meal that we'd have to spend a fortune for, here in Cuenca. I will say this, food in Peru, for the most part, is not only excellent, but affordable. Our only real blow out meal was at IK and we've, honestly, spent more on dinner in Vancouver.

Our next installment will be blissfully short, and will feature a few of the districts of Lima, a huge city that it's almost overwhelming when you try to tackle it. Until then, be well!