Heading into Carnival (Carnaval en español)

Apparently, this is a weird year for Catholics. Ash Wednesday is on much maligned Valentine's Day and Easter falls on April 1st. Should make for interesting observances. The weirdness has already begun: we were out wandering today, minding our own business when we got hit with a drive by shooting; not bullets, of course, but water guns. It's an early start to the carnival festivities, which I've outline in previous posts. (The fun isn't supposed to start until February 11th. I guess some people need to get in some target practice before hand.)

Serious fire power...yours for $12

I've been jonesing for super giant cans of "espuma" (foam) that hold about a litre of the stuff (maybe more!). Two cans, gangster style, one in each hand, would get us through Parque Calderon in a blaze of glory and heaps of foam.

About 5-10 minutes of foam madness
per can, depending on strategy

Like true cowards, we usually kill the big day at a friend's house. They host an annual chili party, as a means of avoiding the hard core water and foam fights that spread across the city during the final weekend before the dour season of Lent. (Ashes and fish, I've heard it called!)

The top indicates the foam colour

Some people find this time of year troublesome and irritating, including many Cuencanos, who head to their houses in the country to ride out the street wars in safety. I recommend picking up a few cans of foam and joining in the fun.

Let the games begin!

For the most part, we don't mind. Most "warriors" are careful to make sure you want to participate, or harmlessly hit you with a short spurt of water from a passing car. It's all good. (Foam in the ears...not so much...hence, the classic jacket-with-hood defence.) Do mind the water balloons that mysteriously fall from upper balconies, though, don't say you weren't warned.

Side note: the weather has improved, so maybe the wet season is holding off for a while.

Faith and Foam

It's always an interesting time, experiencing a culture that is completely different from your own, but when a significant religious holiday rolls around, it kind of makes you sit up and notice. I've been asked a couple of times, by locals, what traditions Canada has for Carnival; the days before the Lenten season. I don't have much to say. We don't have a huge dance festival like Brazil, nor do we have water and foam fights  like they do here.

Elusive foam monster only come out at
Carnaval - our dear friend John

It's very difficult to explain to a predominantly religious (Catholic) society that I come from a country were religion is a very personal thing and that many types are practiced. It's even harder for them to understand that I'm unaffiliated with a recognized belief system. My lack of faithful practice doesn't take away from my joy or curiosity about their own beliefs. I've said many times that being Catholic in Ecuador is a kinder gentler practice than what I'm familiar with. There seems to be a lot of room for other influences.

Aya Huma the Quechuan spirit guide

 

So comes Carnaval and Mardi Gras. It's celebrated here with water, espuma (spray cans filled with (fairly) harmless foam), corn starch, confetti and the occasional egg.There are parades, loud music, fire works, and general levity. As a visitor, if you aren't in the know, it can prove surprising. Water balloons, drive by foamings and unexpected starch bombs can take you unawares. It's all in good fun and Cuencanos generally respect our gringo ignorance. We've been asked if it's okay to shoot us.

Parque Calderon is a hotbed of foam fighting activity

Now comes Ash Wednesday. A lot of the population wanders around with ash crosses on their foreheads and prepares for the restrictions that come with Lent. Many restaurants will offer fish on Fridays and parades, fireworks and music will be so much less over the next forty days.  It's the only time that Cuenca seems fairly subdued.

I don't know much about faith, but I can see that it drives many of the people here and makes their lives richer. It doesn't seem like they hold differing opinions against people and I suspect that many prayers are said for the faithless, but in the kindest way possible.

Get Your Party On - Cuencano Festivals

There's really not a bad time to come visit Cuenca, or Ecuador in general, but if you want to party with the locals in a focused and purposeful manner you might want to visit during one of their major festivals.

El Año Viejo (New Years Eve/literally "the old year"):

Think fireworks, bonfires and effigies (called viejos or años viejos). Not everyone gets this idea, as effigy burning has a different connotation for many people. Here, it's just a way to get rid of the bad feelings from the old year and send out wishes and prayers for the coming year. The effigies are often familiar and beloved characters filled with fireworks and hand written notes that express the dreams for the new year. The pictures may look like we've just survived a civil war, but the only battle is between the communities for best effigy installation. This is a family friendly event, with even small children hopping over the bonfires to have good luck in the new year. Top this off with fireworks and the new year is a pretty great experience. (December 31)

Hoping to win the World Cup

 

Pick a mask

Pick a body and make a Viejo

Then set it on fire and jump over it 3 times for
good luck!

 Dia de los Santos Inocentes (Day of the Innocent Saints or sainted innocents):

Parades are a common occurrence here, but this is one of the larger ones. This parade is a light hearted (and sometimes not so light) mockery of all the little issues that bug Cuencanos through out the year. A particular favourite with the locals, especially the children, expect to see expat's being made fun of and other interesting floats and costumes. The satire is heavy and the parade, held on the last day of the celebrations, has been going on since colonization. (December 28 to January 6)

 Carnaval:

This isn't for everyone, but if you like water fights, this might be the time for you to visit. Cans of fun foam, bags of flour and water guns are de rigeur. For the most part the Ecuadorian youth have been educated to not wantonly attack foreigners, but it's been known to happen - an unexpected jet of water from a passing car, a water balloon from a roof top or a random drive by foaming. If you're prepared for it, it's a pretty good time. The foam doesn't stain your clothes, the water dries and the flour can be shaken out. Be prepared to have people ask you if it's okay to spray you. Of course, if you're packing (either cans of foam or water guns) that makes you a free target right away. The final weekend culminates in huge water/foam fights down in the local parks. Parque Calderon is awash in foam. (The two weeks prior to the Lenten season)

Corpus Cristi (Body of Christ):

The streets are packed with sweets vendors and the square around Parque Calderon is blocked off by the local barrios firework towers. Every night during the festival, the towers are lit up and an incredible display of close up (and I mean close up...mind your clothes) fireworks. Spinners and sparklers work their way up the tower until the top gets lit up and ends in an impressive show of more traditional fireworks. Usually two towers a night are set off. Don't worry about being able to stay awake, with all the sugar you've imbibed during the day (the vendors have something for everyone), you'll be ready to watch the spectacle.
(Held the 9th Thursday after Easter meaning usually in June)

 

Tres de noviembre (The Third of November):

This is the day of Cuenca's liberation from the invading Spanish. The celebration is held over a three day long weekend and features a huge artisanal market along the banks of the River Tomebamba (Toe-may-BOM-ba), feature artists throughout the cities galleries and museums and closed streets throughout the city. All manner of goods can be purchased and many artisans come from all over South America to participate. There are also free concerts and what would a celebration be without fireworks and food?
(Held the weekend closest to November 3rd.) 

Pase del Niño Viajero (Passage of the Traveling/Wandering Child):

If parades are your thing, then this is a must. The desfile (Spanish for parade) is an event a year long in planning and you'll need to eat your Wheaties if you're going to see the whole thing. It's not unusual for the parade to last for 9 or more hours and it features all sorts of music, floats and groups of Indigenous dancers. It mixes the sacred with the profane. (I've seen the Virgin Mary riding a bicycle decorated like Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer.) If you're lucky you can score a place in one of the surrounding buildings that offers a balcony over looking the festivities. We usually go down for a while in the morning, break for lunch and possibly a nap (depending on how warm the day is) and then head back for a second round in the afternoon. Be prepared for throngs of people who don't adhere to the regular rules of parade viewing. The parade is often stopped to push back eager viewers to the curb of the street. Children can score candy, thrown from the floats and if it's hot enough the fire department will be out offering to hose them down with water. (Held December 24th)

Of course, there's a lot more going on here. Parades spring up with no notice and there are also art, music, food and even orchid festivals throughout the year, but the festivals mentioned above are fairly big and don't tend to change dates or times of year. Come anytime and have a fantastic holiday, but plan to try and hit some of the big events if you can.

Danica's Rants

Preparations for Carnaval - Flour and spray foam!

Okay, so sometimes things just make me a little crazy and then I rant. (Photos shamelessly stolen from: http://richandnancy.blogspot.com/2012/02/carnaval-2012.html!)


#1 - Why do female detectives on TV wear high heeled shoes? You see them running through cobble stoned streets and when they stop they're wearing 3 inch stilettos...please...at least wear shoes you can actually run in. (Yes, I've run in high heels, but not at a full out tilt that I can only manage in runners.) A little realism/practicality please.

#2 - Why is it a kindness to put down a suffering animal, but not a kindness to do the same for a terminally suffering human? And please don't tell me because we intellectually understand what we're going through...does that make the pain any less? No.

#3 - Why are so many TV female super heroes stick skinny? All the male superheroes are cut like nobody's business, but the chicks are anemic. (Again...realism...!)

#4 - Why do the posts on Pinterest obsess both with weight loss and dessert recipes? I feel so conflicted when I look at it!

#5 - People from the US accuse Canadians of saying "aboot"...we do not...Scottish people say "aboot" we say "abowt". Where this idea came from, I have no idea, but please stop saying it.

#6 - Reality TV is an oxymoron. It isn't real and is only encouraging people to bad behaviour. It's so rampant that many viewers actually think that acting like a jerk and "winning" are all that matters. It will be the downfall of our society.

#7 - Corporations and share holders expect profits to continually rise. This is impossible that's why they call it a business "cycle". For the love of God, plan for the downturns, stop firing the people on the ground, doing the real work, and get rid of one or two of your useless fat cat executives.

That's it. All the little bees I have buzzing around in my bonnet. Maybe the irritants have gone away because it's Carnaval here and kids are spraying each other with foam and water, running around like made things and have a wonderful time. Things like that can buoy my spirits, even while chewing on some "friendly" fire soap bubbles.