What's New in Cuenca

I think I might have mentioned in my last post that Cuenca received a bit of a glow up, post-pandemic. Unlike my neck of the woods, Cuenca seems to have come out stronger, better and more advanced. This might be an unfair comparison, as Moncton already had a lot of the benefits of a modern, developed economy - meaning that food delivery was a regular thing, as were credit cards and contactless payment etc.  When we left Cuenca cash was king and credit cards weren't widely accepted except in the major chains of grocery and department stores and larger hotels. 

You can barely see it, but there's a full moon on the horizon.

On our arrival, we found that the availability of ATMs had increased markedly, smaller restaurants were accepting credit cards and the food quality had improved in so many ways. It was a pleasant surprise. Prices have definitely gone up in some areas: $2.50 almuerzos are much harder to find, lunch for 2 under $10 is more difficult to come across etc. There are some gems, however. A friend found a restaurant called Curu which is actually a culinary institute. You get a five course meal for $5. Yes, you read that right. Keep in mind that the people working there are in the process of learning everything about the restaurant industry and the institute's focus is on high end presentation. This means smaller servings, but we walked away with happy stomachs, so there was really no complaint.

Amuse bouche: beet gelatin with herbs

Wheat Soup

(On the wheat soup, you'll have to imagine the bowl filled with a hearty, thick soup, richly flavoured and wholly satisfying...I forgot to take a picture with the bowl full.) The round item is a perfectly cooked and slightly charred baby potato, with saffron powder and berry coulis. The soup is what made the meal filling. There were some comments about it reminding tasters of barley soup, if you're looking for a texture reference, but the soup base was thicker than a bouillon.

Palate Cleanser: salad fresca

Cucumber, grape tomatoes, micro beet greens, golden berries/physalis, and a maracuya dressing. The bitter, tang and sweetness was a beautiful combination.

Entree: slowly stewed chicken served
with a side of rice

The rich gravy and tender chicken were really delicious, it's just too bad that the plates weren't heated to keep the serving warm while we waited for the rice to get passed down the table.

Dessert: poached pear in red wine
reduction, with hand crafted vanilla ice-cream
sprinkled with bee pollen

I didn't know you could get pears so small, but it was perfectly executed and the serving size was right on point

There's many more examples of well executed food, but we won't take away anyone's adventurousness, by going into further detail, at least at this point. Be bold and explore!

Carnival

(Or Carnaval, as it's know here)

Little did we realise that we were heading into Carnaval during our trip. We'd overcome the issues with our residency and embraced the rest of our vacation as tourists. We wandered the streets, visited old haunts and met with old friends. Then came the towers of espuma, piles of water pistols and boxes of corn starch on almost every corner. Carnaval was coming. 

The smallest cans of foam available

It's mostly harmless, nothing that you get hit with is going to hurt you. Sure, your eyes might sting, or your mouth might taste like soap and you might get a bit wet, but other than that, it's okay, for the most part.

Video provide by our good friend Carl Marquart, taken during the big Carnaval parade

Generally, most people are respectful and won't engage with you, unless you want to play. We were mostly unmolested and it's fun to watch participants, absolutely coated in foam, dripping with water and streaked with corn starch, running around, laughing and have a great time with their friends and family. It can even be fun to participate. If you're prepared for a dousing. I'd actually encourage it.

Fair warming though, some people play dirty. Car drive by's hitting you with foam, groups of people surrounding a defenceless person and unloading large tins of foam or buckets of water on them. Again, it's not harmful, but, if you aren't part of the game, it can be off-putting or even aggravating. It gets a bit worse in the evening when alcohol becomes a factor. Otherwise, a good time is had by all.

Jardin Botanico

At the south end of the city, along the Yanuncay river, the powers that be have opened up a beautiful little botanical garden, filled with ponds, streams, beautiful flowers and beds of local crops. Because of the flowers, the garden is rife with hummingbirds and bees. It's a calm oasis, well worth a visit. We went on a Sunday, when the garden was "closed", but either because of Carnaval or just the nature of all things Ecuadorian, we were able to wander around the gardens, even though the Orchid pavilion and other buildings were closed. 

There are lots of raised walkways, so you can get a better view of the thoughtfully laid out gardens. There are also benches snuggled under the wide canopy of trees along the river and art installations throughout.

On our way there, we stopped at a playground and let Teddy have the run of the park. He very much enjoyed climbing (a bear-y happy practice) and the slide.

The Cuenca Symphony

Finally, as I feel I may have overwhelmed you with information, I'll only mention one more thing: the Cuenca Symphony. It's enjoying a resurgence since being mostly disbanded during the pandemic. We've been to several performances, all of which have been highly enjoyable. If you get the chance, we highly recommend it. Oh, did I mention that it's free?

So, it feels like things are vibrant and exciting here. The streets are busy, people seem to be happy and thriving, despite there still being big city problems with unhoused people and some vagrancy. It doesn't detract from all the city has to offer. We're glad we get to experience it again.

Heading into Carnival (Carnaval en español)

Apparently, this is a weird year for Catholics. Ash Wednesday is on much maligned Valentine's Day and Easter falls on April 1st. Should make for interesting observances. The weirdness has already begun: we were out wandering today, minding our own business when we got hit with a drive by shooting; not bullets, of course, but water guns. It's an early start to the carnival festivities, which I've outline in previous posts. (The fun isn't supposed to start until February 11th. I guess some people need to get in some target practice before hand.)

Serious fire power...yours for $12

I've been jonesing for super giant cans of "espuma" (foam) that hold about a litre of the stuff (maybe more!). Two cans, gangster style, one in each hand, would get us through Parque Calderon in a blaze of glory and heaps of foam.

About 5-10 minutes of foam madness
per can, depending on strategy

Like true cowards, we usually kill the big day at a friend's house. They host an annual chili party, as a means of avoiding the hard core water and foam fights that spread across the city during the final weekend before the dour season of Lent. (Ashes and fish, I've heard it called!)

The top indicates the foam colour

Some people find this time of year troublesome and irritating, including many Cuencanos, who head to their houses in the country to ride out the street wars in safety. I recommend picking up a few cans of foam and joining in the fun.

Let the games begin!

For the most part, we don't mind. Most "warriors" are careful to make sure you want to participate, or harmlessly hit you with a short spurt of water from a passing car. It's all good. (Foam in the ears...not so much...hence, the classic jacket-with-hood defence.) Do mind the water balloons that mysteriously fall from upper balconies, though, don't say you weren't warned.

Side note: the weather has improved, so maybe the wet season is holding off for a while.