Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead)

Thanks to the movie Coco, this celebration is much better known and (perhaps) understood. I find the concept soothing; the idea that a bridge is built between the land of the living and dead for a bit of time and that we can (at least spiritually) spend some time with our lost loved ones.

Display on a random roundabout

Young man getting kitted up

 In San Miguel de Allende, the town found that the day of the dead was being lost in favour of Halloween. Perhaps due to the influence of US entertainment, or just the excitement of something new or different, but the town decided to do something about it. La Calaca Festival was born. It has been wildly successful and the traditional holiday has morphed into a 5 day celebration that starts with Halloween and ends somewhere on November 3rd or 4th. The character of la Katrina (or el Katrin for men) has steeped into the daily life here and can be seen everywhere.

 

The streets near the main square in town are lined with face painters who will paint you up with a skeleton face, beautifully adorned with swirls of colours, sequins, fake eyelashes and flower crowns. (This apparently stems from certain people not being able to execute the make-up very well, or so the rumour goes. We're looking at you foreigners!) Tons of people run around like this during the whole festival. It really is quite a sight, but the concentration is on the November 1st and 2nd festivities, when the bridge between worlds opens. Marigolds are used (they represent the sun) and light the way for the spirits to come home. The altars are simple or complicated, but will always include candles, photos, food, drinks and marigolds. I shouldn't forget music; almost everything here is accompanied by music.

A specialty is pan de muertos (bread of the dead), a sweet bread loaf (or smaller buns) with extra dough crossed across the top to represent bones. 

A bit like Easter bread without the dried fruit

Families gather to remember loved ones and share stories, passing on the family history to the next generation and spending time together, like most any holiday.

Note the altar, we thought she
might be a family member

 I'd recommend a visit during this time of year. The colours, sounds and sights are amazing and not something you're likely to see anywhere else in the world.