Comuna 13 - from terror to triumph

This is the community where Pablo Escobar really came into himself. It was a ragtag slum of dispossessed people that fell victim to the corrupt governments of the 1950s. Desperation was one of the building blocks and this inevitably led to crime, gangs and utter lawlessness. The government turned a blind eye after razing the area a couple of times and let the area develop "off grid", meaning no services or utilities. This seems to be how Escobar endeared himself to the citizenry originally. He finagled a governmental position, giving him a veil of legitimacy, that oversaw the comunas in Medellin and it introduced him to the poor and desperate people of the city. He poured in cash (both illicit as well as government backed), ensured "protection" and calmed the simmering cauldron of terror - well, removed competitive threats, at least. You wouldn't have wanted to cross him, to be sure.

Escalators heading up the steep hills
of the Comuna

Finally, as the war on drugs spiraled out of control, all of the murders, drugs and violence became too much for the residents and they decided to say "No more." It was a bold move. Especially in the face of well armed guerrillas and cartels. They focused on art, music and strength of community. There's a great rap culture in the area and it's vibrant with murals. The government finally took note of the changes in the early 2000s and invested some money to make the area more attractive to tourists.

While the houses seem small, and are stacked up a precarious hill, there is little remnant of it's bloody history, except for the odd reverential picture of Escobar visible through a window or doorway. The people are welcoming and the Comuna has a festive air to it, like at any moment a neighbourhood party could break out.

View from the upper reaches of Comuna 13

Fun way to get back down the hill

It's a pretty dramatic testimony to the will of people with a common cause, no matter how tired or scared. It gives hope for the future.